Mircrowave door switch keeps going bad


Mircrowave door switch keeps going bad

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garin33
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Hello and thanks in advance for any help.
I have a Frigidaire Microwave/Oven combo. About 2 years ago, I had the common problem where if you opened the microwave door, the light would come on and the platter would start to move. So I replaced the lower door switch and it worked fine. After about 6 months, the switch went bad. So I thought maybe I used a cheap switch and bought an OEM version and replaced it. It lasted another 6 months and went bad as well. I checked the specs for the amp rating and voltage and everything is similar to the original switch. So recently I replaced it again and it lasted only one month. When I removed the switch, I could see that switch melted a little. So it appears that too much current is going through the switch?
Does anyone have any ideas why the switches keep going bad in such a short period of time and why it seems to melt the switch after a few months?
Thank you so much for any ideas. I hate to replace the microwave because its a oven combo so I would have to replace the oven as well.
Thank you!!
Garin
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That problem usually occurs if the door is opened constantly with the microwave running. In many units the bottom switch is the fail safe. It shorts when the door is opened. If the microwave is still running it can be tough on the switch.
The problem usually ends up being the other switches are not aligned correctly and don't shut the microwave down quick enough. Have all of the switches been tested for continuity? 

What is the model number of the unit? 
garin33
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FixItUp - 10/8/2019 1:29:47 PM
That problem usually occurs if the door is opened constantly with the microwave running. In many units the bottom switch is the fail safe. It shorts when the door is opened. If the microwave is still running it can be tough on the switch.
The problem usually ends up being the other switches are not aligned correctly and don't shut the microwave down quick enough. Have all of the switches been tested for continuity? 

What is the model number of the unit? 

Thank you so much for your fast reply. I have not tested the other switches but when I changed the bottom door switch and everything worked fine for 6 months, I had assumed the other switches were ok. So each time I change the bottom switch, all works fine for awhile. However, now knowing that the other switches could be causing a problem with the bottom switch, I think I will just change them all to make sure. 
Thank you for the suggestions, its very much appreciated. I've been scouring the internet for hours and can't find anyone else dealing with a similar issue. I did call a microwave repair company today and the guy said he thought something else was probably wrong with the microwave due to age, etc and it was probably not worth fixing or trying to figure out what it is. He was pretty honest and said that they would just change the switch like I do and then it would just go bad again in a few months. I'll check the model number tonight. Thank you!!
garin33
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This is the make and model: 

Frigidaire PLEB27M9ECD

Thank you.


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If the microwave is older and since you have been having to change out the part constantly, it could very well be something else, such as a bad control board, which can run upwards over $200. Microwaves aren't the safest appliances to be messing around in. The top and bottom switch both use part number 5304440026. The middle switch is 5303319559. Test them all and ensure they are aligned properly. Make sure the switches are the correct amps. From what I have found this is a somewhat common thing and not unheard of, unfortunately people have to just keep changing out the part until they grow tired of it I suppose. Thanks for posting!
garin33
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FixItUp - 10/9/2019 9:39:38 AM
If the microwave is older and since you have been having to change out the part constantly, it could very well be something else, such as a bad control board, which can run upwards over $200. Microwaves aren't the safest appliances to be messing around in. The top and bottom switch both use part number 5304440026. The middle switch is 5303319559. Test them all and ensure they are aligned properly. Make sure the switches are the correct amps. From what I have found this is a somewhat common thing and not unheard of, unfortunately people have to just keep changing out the part until they grow tired of it I suppose. Thanks for posting!

Thank you for all your information and fast replies, so much appreciated. I will be careful, I understand that the capacitors hold a high voltage charge. I will test and examine the other switches for alignment and specs. Normally I wouldn't bother going through all this trouble for a microwave but as mentioned, this unit is a combo oven/microwave and it cost about $2000. Plus I had to have the cabinet modified for a custom fit since it's an in wall unit. The unit is about 9 years old and the oven is like new. So it seems like such a waste to replace a $2000 item. Otherwise, I would just toss this thing and get another one. Even if I had to replace the control board, it would be better than spending $2000 and having to most likely have the cabinet modified again and have someone install it. 
So thanks so much for your help and I'll give it a try this weekend and update you. 


Thanks!!
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10 Months Ago by garin33
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You are welcome! Thank you for keeping us posted here on the forum. It will eventually help someone else out one day I'm sure. 
garin33
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Sorry, one other question. I noticed that if a buy a genuine Frigidaire door switch, they cost about $30 each. However, I have been buying Omron switches from Digi-Key that have the same specs as the Frigidaire switch and they cost only $5. I have also bought a genuine Whirlpool switch with the same specs that was about $12 on Amazon. Could this be the reason that they are going bad so fast? Because they cost so much less and the genuine Frigidaire is that much better? From the other posts I have read, as long as the specs are the same or better and its a name brand, it should be fine. Thank you for any comment.
Thanks!!
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As long as the amps are the same it shouldn't effect it if its considered a universal type. However, I do know that manufacturers encourage to use the part numbers listed specifically for the model to ensure of top performance. 
garin33
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Thank you, I sort of figured that but I'm getting desperate, haha.
Will update after I get the new switches and replace all 3 and check alignment.
Thank you again for your replies.
Garin


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