Microwave blows breaker and ruins door switch when door opened during operation


Microwave blows breaker and ruins door switch when door opened during...

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JackR
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GE Microwave MN JVM3160DF2WW.  If I put a new switch in, this is the normally closed, second from bottom microwave works fine as long as I stop from keypad.  If I open the door to stop it appears to ruin the door switch I'm guessing from a current surge and kicks the breaker off.  After that it will start for 1/2 a second and kick off until I replace the switch again.  Any help is appreciated.  Thanks.
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Hello,

We had this same exact issue in here earlier this year.. I dont recall the solution but  the post is within this forum somewhere so I suggest searching microwave issues and you will most likely find the previous post





JackR
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Thank you

I’m thinking it’s the Jenn air post on page 2 timing of door switches opening and closing

How does the bottom normally open switch fit it

What’s it for

Thanks again
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I personally don't recall.. its been more than 10 years since I opened up one of these and I didn't work on a whole lot of Ge microwaves so I really don't have the answer to that to be honest.. sorry 



JackR
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Issue is that the door is so worn out that when you pull on the bottom of the handle rather than the top the normally closed switch trips before the switch that opens the circuit sending current directly to ground.  Works fine if you always shut off via key pad and not opening door.  Thanks to everyone for their help.
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Thanks for updating us here on the forum! Glad you were able to figure it out.
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Same problem with middle 'monitor' micro switch where the contacts on the inside of the switch become welded, tripping the breaker and never working again.  My GE microwave is a similar model, the micro switch is a KW3AT-16 (GE part# WB24X10205), normally closed.  Bought new, just over two years ago.  I called GE's Relations Dept and pointed out that this issue shows up a lot when searched online for GE microwaves.  They sent me replacement switch ($40+ value) for free, which was very kind.

Unfortunately, within a couple days, one of the kids popped the door open before hitting cancel/pause, causing the contacts on the new switch to weld again.  I suspect (like the OP) that it has something to do with the door alignment on the main upper and lower switches.

What I'm trying to figure is how to find a suitable replacement that does not cost $40. 

The original KW3AT-16 switch has these specs:
16GPA 125/250 VAC 40T125 5E4
1/3 hp 125VAC 10A 30VDC
16(4)A 125/250VAC 40T125 5E4
10A 30VDC 40T125 5E4

I am considering replacing it with a similar sized switch with the following specs (Amazon, two for $13.50 shipped) :
0.6A 125VDC 0.3A 250VDC
16A 1/2HP 125/250 VAC T130
16(3)A 250V ~ T130 5E4u

I'm not sure what all these specs mean, but it seems that the second switch can handle 16A vs 10A, 1/2HP vs 1/3HP and similar resistance (5E4)... Or perhaps I've got it all wrong Sad

Any insight into how to compare micro switches would be greatly appreciated!

Edited
10 Months Ago by akamax


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