Washer Repair Tips


Washer Repair Tips

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The washing machine is up there with the refrigerator and the heater/AC unit as one of the three most vital home appliances in modern life. When any of these three machines goes south, it can be cause for alarm. Unlike with the other two, however, repairing the washing machine does not automatically entail a service call from a professional.


Prevention/Solution
Leaking is a common problem with washing machines. The first thing to do is to locate the exact spot from which the machine is leaking. The problem is that a washing machine has many places from which water may leak. Check all hoses and look for cracks in the unit itself. Tightening a nut or a screw may be all that is necessary.

Prevention/Solution
Leaking may occur before or after the machine has filled. If a machine leaks after it has already filled with water, this indicates that the leak may be the result of loose connections or a problem with a pump hose. If the leaks occur during the filling process, this indicates a possible crack in an inlet hose.

Prevention/Solution
Almost all washing machines vibrate to a degree, but excessive vibration indicates that the level of the legs is off-kilter. The racket a vibrating machine makes might seem to indicate a problem that would be very expensive to fix, but in most cases the solution is as simple as propping up one corner of the machine with a piece of wood, or even tightening an adjustable leg with a screwdriver.

Prevention/Solution
A washing agitator that spins too roughly or too slowly is usually the result of a drive belt that is either broken or has come too loose. Inspecting the belt for wear or checking for looseness is the first thing you should do if your machine is suffering agitation problems. Tightening a loose belt typically requires little more than a socket wrench to loose and tighten the nuts. Even replacing a belt is not difficult enough to require a professional.

Prevention/Solution
When water enters a washing machine too slowly or not at all, the problem is normally located in a kink or blockage in the inlet hose that carries water into the well. A pair of hose pliers can be used to remove the hose from the inlet valves. Simply straighten out the hose. If this does not solve the problem, remove the screens from over the values and rinse them under water.

Prevention/Solution
If the tub of water overflows, the first thing to do is unplug the washing machine. If the flow of water continues, turn off the water faucet, remove the water and replace the inlet valve. Replacing the inlet valve is a relatively easy operation involving the removal of the top of the valve and the replacement of the inlet hose. Typically, all that is required is a screwdriver, and and possibly a dull knife.

Warning
If the flow of water halts after you unplug the washing machine, it is a sign of a defective water-level switch. Fixing it is a much more complicated process that requires a professional. While many minor repairs and maintenance of washing machines can be done by the homeowner, if the repair does not solve the problem, it is better to call in a professional than to continue trying to fix it yourself, as you may end up doing even greater damage to the unit.



carolsue366
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I need some help getting a pump off of a washer to replace it.  Do they come off and are they replaceable.  Model # LXR7144EQ1 which is a Whirlpool washer bought in 1997.

carol
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Hi Carol,

You'll need the Whirlpool Kenmore Washer Direct Drive Pump - 3363394 . As for instructions on how to remove the pump please see below. Hope this helps!

1) Unplug the washer. Remove the 2 Phillips screws that retain the console. (On some machines, these are hidden under console end caps that must be pried off. On newer models, they’re on the back of the console). Rotate the console fwd, then up and back; it will hang back out of the way if the washer’s away from the wall far enough.

2) Unplug the white lid switch plug and pry up the 2 large clips that hold the cabinet to the washer back panel.

3) Tilt the entire cabinet forward and it’ll unhook from the retainers on the base. Lift the cabinet off and set aside (not as heavy as it sounds!) You'll see the pump right in front, very easy to access.

4) Connect your wetvac to the washer's drain hose and run the vac to empty as much water as possible from the pump and hoses.. (Keep the vac handy to pickup any remaining water that may spill when you pull the hoses off the pump).

5) Pry the two retaining clips off the pump and pull it off the motor shaft. In some cases, especially if it's been leaking for a while, it will be 'frozen' to the shaft. These can sometimes be really tough to remove. In extreme cases, it's easiest to cut the center out of the pump with a hole saw or RotoZip® tool, and then pry or cut the remaining hub pieces off.

When that happens, you'll find the motor shaft rusted, but in nearly every case, it can be resurfaced to accept the new pump. I use a Dremel Moto-Tool® and sanding drum to grind the rust damage off, but a good file will do the job too - just a lot slower.

The shaft has to be ground back down so that the new pump slips easily onto it. If it binds and has to be forced on it will probably develop a leak, so this is very important.

6) Reinstall the hoses to the pump ports. Put a light coating of petroleum jelly on the motor shaft (makes this job easier if there's a next time!) and push the pump back on, rotating the motor slightly if necessary by reaching back and turning it by the coupler. Reinstall the pump clips.

7) Before putting it all back together, I like to run the washer with the cabinet off and double-check that there are no leaks. This can be done by using a lid switch jumper made for the purpose, or even an alligator clip jumper carefully inserted into the back of the lid switch plug.

Also, before buttoning up, you'll want to lube the brake to prevent lockup. Takes only a minute, but can prevent a ton of problems. I've seen violent brake lockup break suspension parts, and even ruin a brand new coupler in only two loads! Here's how to easily prevent that: DD washer brake lube

8) To reinstall the cabinet, open the cabinet lid, and, looking down through the lid opening, hook the cabinet front under the washer base while keeping the cabinet tilted slightly forward. Rest your foot at the cabinet bottom to hold it in place, and tip it back down onto the base. Snap the 2 cabinet clips back into place, and look down the back corners to ensure there are no gaps between the cabinet and back panel where they meet at the bottom. If one side’s gapped, it means the rear, bottom retainer on that side isn’t hooked. Pop the clip on that side, tilt forward slightly, and push the side down into place. Then reinstall the clip.

9) Plug the lid switch and power plugs back in, rotate the console back down, reinstall its retaining screws, and pat yourself on the back!


Christi
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Hi, I have a WP Duet Washer model GHW9100LW1 which gave F02 errors and would not drain. I cleared the sump area where I found a few interesting items, but that has not solved the F02 errors issue. The washer works fine for most of the cycle, just in the last part where it's rinsing and getting set to spin it seems to struggle. There is a lot of rattling noise coming from the impeller and I have twice taken it off just to reassure myself that there is nothing hitting it. If I had to guess, it's the impeller rattling, because perhaps a bearing is burned out trying to move water that wasn't flowing, or something got through and it jammed at some point. The repair man is convinced that I should change the CCU. I'm not so sure. He says the pumps never fail, and because it goes round for part of the cycle it is fine. So...am I nuts? Can this little impeller rattling around be too inefficient and give a drain error?



Appreciate your help. I know which part it is if it's the thing to do...Are these hard to replace? I hoped I could just buy the motor and impeller, but I guess not.



Cheers,



Christi
Kelly Smith
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Hi, Christi! I disagree with your repairman regarding these pumps, they fail quite often! They are pretty easy to diagnose simply by looking at the impeller because when they fail, the impeller is usually pushed forward towards the pump housing. There should be about 1/4" distance between the front of the impeller and the pump housing. I suspect there is not in your pump. When the impellers move forward, they rattle and do not turn as designed so the expelling of the water is diminished or halted altogether. A new pump should fix you right up! These are easy to replace and the link to the part is below.

Click Here for Drain Pump

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The User assumes responsibility associated with making test measurements, adjustments, parts replacements and any other action necessary to perform any recommended procedures. It is the responsibility of the User to ask for clarification if a recommendation is not fully understood, including the risks and hazards associated with the recommended procedures.





Christi
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Yes! It's shoved right into the housing. Thanks so much. Can I likely do this exchange myself? Do I need to change the whole thing, or can I just swap out the motor and impeller? I'm a little concerned that I will have trouble getting the whole apparatus out and back in again without any new problems.
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You can EASILY do this yourself! One screw in the very front holds it in place and two hoses connect to it. It comes as an assembly and is very easy to install. You only need a pair of pliers to release the clamps on the hoses and a screwdriver to remove the screw that secures it in. You SO can do this yourself! Follow the link to the pump and then pocket the $100 you saved on a service call! I added a link to a screwdriver kit as well, if you need one.

Drain Pump Assembly

Screwdriver Kit

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Awesome! I'll get on it as soon as the part arrives. Thanks for your help Kelly.
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You are very welcome! Great job in diagnosing the faulty pump and keep me posted on your progress! I am a huge fan of DIY'ers, so I am always pleased when I can point someone in the right direction.

Kelly

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I have a Clothes Washer - Kenmore 80 Series Model #11023832100.

the Drum does not spin.

I have fixed the lid switch.

the coupler is fine.

the clutch is spinning.



What do I check next? is it the clutch?



Help

ths D


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